Wine's world

With the first rackings now complete (when the wine has been transferred from the vats into barrels to begin its ageing process), we are beginning to get a glimpse of the quality of the 2026 vintage in Bordeaux, following a summer that was consistently (uninterrupted from May to October!) hot and dry:

• The grapes—both white and red—were in perfect condition. So perfect, in fact, that the Sauternes producers harvested grapes that had dried naturally (concentration through desiccation) rather than those affected by botrytis (concentration through noble rot). We expect to discover aromatic profiles of dried fruit and honey, closer to straw wines than to the usual sweet wines.

• For dry white wines, as the grapes were already ripe by early August, producers began the harvest without delay, often even before 15 August, so as not to risk losing freshness and acidity. The producers’ expertise and technical skill will make all the difference.

• As for the reds, although ripening may have stalled in mid-August, the winegrowers had plenty of time to harvest perfectly ripe grapes at their own pace in early September, in ideal weather conditions.
   - The vines’ resilience in particularly dry conditions is remarkable. From the north to the south of the Gironde, it was striking at the end of August to see how the vines were the only patches of green in the landscape, whilst all the meadows and lawns were parched. Thanks to their deep root systems, the mature vines were able to find the water necessary for their growth under all circumstances.
   - As proof of this resilience, Bordeaux winegrowers, who had feared a very meagre 2026 harvest (small berries with thick skins and little juice), were pleasantly surprised after pressing to find that, although volumes were initially lower, they were ultimately higher (+11 per cent) than those of the 2025 vintage.
   - Consequently, we expect the 2026 reds to be, at the very least, of an excellent standard, perhaps comparable to that of the 2022 vintage, a truly great vintage characterised by heat and drought (and wildfires!).

Incidentally, we are hearing similar reports from Burgundy, where winegrowers are describing the 2026 vintage as ‘historic’ (see the cover of 'Bourgogne Aujourd’hui', October–November 2026).

According to estimates from the Ministry of Agriculture as at 1 October, wine production in French PDOs is projected to reach nearly 34 million hectoliters in 2026, representing a 7% decline compared to 2025 and a 15% decline compared to the five-year average (even though that average includes three years of low yields in 2021, 2024, and 2025). This would therefore be one of the lowest production levels in the past 30 years.

The decline in vineyard area (grapevine removals, abandonment of leases, etc.), estimated at -2.5% over the past year, is not sufficient to explain this decrease. Similarly, the start of the season was favorable, with good soil moisture replenishment in the spring, vigorous shoot growth, and low disease pressure.

However, weather conditions in the summer of 2026—marked by near-constant drought and repeated heat waves—severely impacted yields by causing excessive water stress (limiting berry size) and even scorching of the vines (defoliation, wilting of the grapes).

Most vineyards began the harvest as early as August. Yields varied greatly from one region to another, depending on whether the vineyard benefited from late rainfall or was authorized to irrigate:

• In Bordeaux, the rains in late August were a lifesaver. Despite the uprooting of nearly 5,000 ha, production is expected to increase by +9% compared to 2025, while remaining below the five-year average (-12%).
• In Languedoc-Roussillon, production is projected to rise by +18% compared to 2025, matching the five-year average. However, this increase masks significant local disparities, depending on the extent to which farms rely on irrigation.
• In the Southeast (Rhône Valley and Provence), recent rainfall has been beneficial, even though hailstorms in the Vaucluse, Ardèche, and Drôme have exacerbated losses. Production is expected to be on par with that of 2025, below the five-year average (-5%).
• In Corsica, the harvest, which began in early August, ultimately saw volumes little affected by the heat wave thanks to effective use of irrigation. Production is expected to be in line with that of 2025, below the five-year average (-5%).
• In Alsace, drought limited berry size, even though the vines benefited from late rains. The harvest, which began on August 18, will yield a crop smaller than the already meagre one of 2025 (-8%).
• In the Loire Valley, the harvest, which began around August 10, will result in a yield lower than that of 2025 (-3%) and the five-year average (-9%).
• In Burgundy-Beaujolais, hail, drought, and heat waves have sharply reduced expected yields. With Pinot Noir particularly affected, the 2026 harvest shows a -23% drop compared with 2026 and a -29% drop compared with the five-year average.
• In the Jura, the drought resulted in very small grapes, leading to a harvest volume significantly lower than in 2025 (-28%), but only -14% below the five-year average.
• In Champagne, the harvest began as early as August 10. Following adverse weather conditions (frost in the Aisne, hail, and drought since March), the weight of the grape clusters has reached its lowest level in 20 years, and the harvest is expected to be halved (-49%) compared to 2025 and -47% below the five-year average.

Since May, the early development of the 2026 vintage (already evident due to budbreak three weeks ahead of schedule, followed by rapid flowering) has been accelerating as a result of successive heatwaves.

The anticipated harvest dates (for all Bordeaux appellations, not just the earliest-ripening terroirs) are remarkable and are sure to break many records:

• First week of August: harvest of Crémants de Bordeaux, for which preserving acidity is paramount,
• 15 August: harvest of dry whites,
• last week of August: harvest of Merlot.
• Given that the harvest typically lasts around 20 days, the last Cabernet grapes will likely be picked before mid-September.

With heatwaves compounded by persistent drought, it is the youngest vines and/or those on the most well-drained sandy soils (the southern Haut-Médoc on the outskirts of Bordeaux, the Graves on the edge of the Landes Forest, and Saint-Émilion and Pomerol on the outskirts of Libourne) that will suffer the most.

Conversely, old vines with deep root systems, and terroirs on clay or clay-limestone subsoils, will – barring extreme weather conditions – be able to make the most of these summer heatwaves to produce great wines, as was the case in 2022.